sarnian - sorry but you can't take Diamond as an authorative source at all. Hunt says there were still trees when the Europeans arrived, as do others (or at least they say its equivocal because the evidence is mixed) and he trumps Diamond. Diamond is alone is his theories about the Easter Islanders destroying the environment. Or rather its him and Thor Heyderdahl, who he got it from. Everyone else says the civilisation collapsed through western contact - obvious when you think about it. Read the Hunt article.
As for completely disregarding him as a source, read the chapter on Australia in his book on Collapses. Its full of the most collosal blunders. Amongst other problems he confuses the West Australian State constitution (which specifically mentions farmers) with the Federal constitution (which doesn't). Most amusing. You should read it. He can't be used.

Joe Cell Construction
Two Types of Energy Cells:..Acid and Alkaline
Alex Schiffer indicates that you can make the Joe Cell as either an Acid Cell or an Alkaline Cell. He says that a lot of people can't get their cell to work because they have mixed materials from both types of cells.

In his Experimenter's Guide to The Joe Cell, Alex lists which properties and materials match the acid or the alkaline cell. Alex prefers to only build acid cells. The glass test cell described here is based on Alex's notes for an acid cell. .

Early Prototypes
The videos cover many of Joe's early cell prototypes from 1991 onward. Rather than spend the time here describing earlier flawed designs, I feel it's more productive to concentrate on Joe's most recent and successful Joe Cell configurations.

Interested investigators can review Joe's earlier prototypes both on the videos and in Barry's book,The Joe Phenomenon.

Joe discovered that constructing two different Energy Cells produced the best results.A smaller Energy Cell is used in the car itself and another larger cell (located in his shop)..is used for charging the water

The following is a general description of the smaller energy cell and larger energy cell which we shall refer to as the Car Cell, and the Charging Vat respectively, but bear in mind that they are both Joe Cells working on the same principle.

One is simply larger and the other smaller. To get a better understanding of how the Joe Cell works, Alex Schiffer suggests that one should first build a glass test cell and gain some experience.

Then, you can build the charging vat and car cell with greater confidence and fewer mistakes.

We'll describe all three starting with the car cell.

The Car Cell
The Joe Cell that is placed in the car is much smaller than the Charging Vat. The dimensions are not critical,but a Car Cell container of four to five inches inside diameter for stainless steel is sufficient

(six inch diameter for a glass or plastic container ).
Larger diameters are possible,..but probably unnecessary.

The container itself can be made of stainless steel (S/S) glass, or clear acrylic plastic, but we'll concentrate on describing the stainless steel container since the strength and rigidity of this material offers practical advantages for car use.

Checking For Magnetism
Every piece of stainless steel (including nuts and washers) that is used in this cell must have as little magnetic attraction as possible by checking with a neodymium, rare earth magnet (Radio Shack: Rare Earth Magnet ,Cat. # 64-1895).

This magnet is no larger than a pea, but it will serve our purpose. Use Super Glue to attach 12" of strong thread or thin fishing line to the magnet.

Take the magnet with you when you go hunting for your food grade stainless steel (type 316L is most common).

Select stainless steel in which the magnetic attraction is so low that it will not support the weight of the magnet itself. Next, swing or hold the magnet on the string right next to the steel and notice how much of an attractive deflection occurs.

Pick stainless with the lowest level of attraction (there will usually be some attraction).

Making the Plate Assembly
The S/S container is also referred to as the Anode or anode container (the positive terminal of the car's battery is connected to the anode).

The Car Cell uses either 3 or 4 stainless steel cylinders (pipes) which Joe refers to as plates of approximately 1'', 2" , 3", and 4" diameter respectively that are placed concentrically, one inside the other and placed within the anode (housing) container.

These S/S pipes are insulated from each another by a "Y" arrangement of three rubber insulators (Alex Schiffer uses Ebonite or Teflon) that are separated at 120 degree intervals around the pipe and are fitted at the bottom and top between adjacent pipes of the pipe assembly.

These rubber spacers act both as an insulator between the plates and a mechanical means of holding the plate/pipe assembly together (a friction/pressure fit).

It's important that the tops of the pipes are perfectly even (level) with each other

If one pipe is slightly higher or lower than its neighbor, the cell won't work correctly.

Keep it Clean
After obtaining your stainless steel and cutting everything to the correct size, all S/S must be thoroughly cleaned with acetic acid (vinegar) mixed with juvenile water before assembly.

Always work with clean hands. Use no other cleaner on the stainless steel except acetic acid and juvenile water.

Polish the stainless before cleaning it. Don't use commercial abrasives. Keeping everything clean is an absolute requirement for the cell to work.

The Stainless Steel Bolt
The Car Cell has a S/S bolt that is press driven into the bottom of the center 1" pipe. You want to find a stainless steel bolt (check for magnetism) with a hexagonal head that will give you a tight force- fit into the one inch pipe (use a stainless steel (316L if possible) one half inch bolt of 3-4 inch length).

The bolt and the 1" pipe together constitute the Cathode of the Car Cell to which the negative terminal of the battery will connect via the chassis of the car.

The Car Cell container has a hole drilled in the bottom which allows the bolt connected to the 1 " pipe to pass through it. This hole is fitted with a large rubber grommet (or another type of insulator such as a stepped teflon washer) in order to prevent the metal of the bolt from touching the metal of the Energy Cell container.

S/S nuts are secured on the inside and the outside of the bolt to firmly hold it in place. The nuts are also touching the flanges of the large rubber or teflon grommet through which the bolt passes in order to prevent the nut from making a metal to metal contact with the anode container.

The portion of the bolt protruding from the bottom of the container is then bolted to the chassis of the car.

A rubber pad must be placed between the bottom of the positive anode container and the negative car chassis in order to prevent metal to metal contact

The length of the S/S pipe assembly within the Car Cell container is dependent upon the total number of cylinders used for plates..Alex Schiffer found..that the length of the pipe assembly..could be optimized by matching it to the "seed diameter"of the cell.

Alex includes a complete table in his Guide, but a handy rule of thumb is to use 7" long cylinders (pipes).for a 3 plate Car Cell and 8" long cylinders for a 4 plate Car Cell(the anode container should be about 2 inches longer than the interior cylinder plates).

It's important that the length of each cylinder be approximately the same, regardless of the design length chosen. The 2", 3" and 4" plates(pipes)are left electrically unconnected to the battery or to other plates, but they play a critical function in the operation of the Energy Cell.

Joe calls them Neutral Plates. Remember, the negative side of the battery is connected to the center one inch pipe via the S/S bolt (cathode)which is connected to the chassis of the car.

The positive terminal of the battery will be connected to the Car Cell stainless steel anode container via the one inch aluminum tubing will be attached to the cone top of the Car Cell

The Anode Container
The plate assembly is placed within the S/S anode container. The plates are held suspended off the bottom of the container by the S/S bolt passing up through the hole that was drilled in the bottom of the container.

The anode container needs to be capped with a cone shaped top.

edited
http://educate-yourself.org/fe/fejoewatercell.shtml

You weld a 1" compression angle fitting to the reducer's 1" hole at the top in order to receive the 1" aluminum tubing that will carry the orgone to the engine manifold.

The one inch aluminum tubing should be polished on the inside since orgone behaves like an optical wave.

Ideally, you want the aluminum tubing angle rising until it reaches the carb connection, but horizontal runs of the tubing are OK. Don't, however, direct the tubing downwards.

Orgone wants to rise, it does not want to go downhill..*

Mate, I have read the paper on the Joe cell and it is unbelievable that in this day and age, people still believe in fairies.

David